![]() No need for any flex additive in your clear. Never use anything coarser than 180 grit during the entire process. Sand the primer until it's ready for paint just like you would a metal panel. Get everything corrected then re-prime with epoxy after applying adhesion promoter again over any bare plastic areas exposed during the sanding process. After epoxy has set up for the required time 24 hours (min) -48 hours (better) then apply your choice of either conventional glaze or a bumper specific product like UPOL Stronghold. If you have the time a better way would be to sand and expose the gouges trying to feather them out slightly and remove any fuzzy plastic, then adhesion promoter on all the bare plastic and then epoxy. ![]() I've generally only repaired bumper covers the Collision Repair way which is to fill defects on the plastic directly then prime. Yes it will crack if flexed to much but if you hit something that flexes it that much there is going to be other damage anyway. Deeper gouges, most body shops just use conventional glaze. So after you get the paint off, you can sand light scratches/gouges out of the cover without any filler. Not the OEM as that is the best base to start with. Urethane stripper is designed to only remove the refinish paint. If it is OEM paint underneath you want to leave that. It can be painstaking and time consuming. ![]() Most of the time even when using stripper you will have to sand the cover to get it all off.
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